Guys, 

Mobil 1 has apparently actually changed the formulation (all weights) of its fully synthetic car oil we have been using for years….. In the past, they only changed the label, but the product worked well. 

We have had a rash of welded clutch pusher assemblies (and damaged clutches) in the first part of 2007. Nearly all can be traced to switching to the “new” Mobil 1. 

Our 2007 Oil advice at this point (in order): 

1. We use our Alisyn <<0 in all of our stock engine bikes. I will be testing a thicker version for general street and big power use very soon. (<<0 has been in my ZX-14 its whole life, and it just made 195 HP last week- one of my friends has had it in his GSX-R1000 for 11K street miles, and he also road races the bike. This oil is the best we have ever found!) 

2. Quaker state 20w-50 (Big CC/Nitrous) or 10w-30 (stock) is organic…..but it works VERY well and is readily available. 

3. Find the highest quality, fully synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil you can; Royal Purple, Red Line, Amsoil, Golden Spectro….etc. We have also had very good results with Motul and Motorex in the past. (BUT- we just had one customer have a clutch pusher weld problem switching to Motorex from Red Line- switched back to Red Line after the repair and the problem went away…so we are as confused as you at the moment about this problem.) 

4. ANY fully synthetic motor oil from ANY motorcycle manufacturer/Dealership (Suzuki, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha….etc.) will also be a fine choice. 

Note: We try to stay away from all other synthetic car oils as a result of customer problems in the past (Castrol, Kendall, Pennzoil etc. have all caused problems of some type). The organic versions of these brands have also been in question for years...but hell- everything changes and at this point…use your own judgment! 

I hope this helps! 

Brock

Hey Brock,THANKS FOR ALL YOU GUYS INPUT AND PRODUCTS!!!! GOT ME RUNNIN THEM BROKE!!!!!

QUESTION IS THIS, I` VE BEEN USING MOBIL 5-30 AND SEEMS LIKE I SHOULD BE SWITICHING TO SOMETHING BETTER, WHERE CAN I GET ALISYN<<0?IS THIS 5-30???   MOST SHOPS AROUND MY AREA DON`T SELL IT,SAYING IT NOT GOOD, BUT IF YOUR USING IT,I GOT TO GET IT. 

I DON`T  KNOW WHERE TO GET ANY OF THE ALISYN<<0? MY SHOPS AROUND HERE DON`T SELL IT. IS THIS A 5-30 OIL?  WHAT`S THE NEXT BEST OIL TO RUN? WAS USING THE MOBIL 5-30

Brock, is the new reccomendation on Mobil 1 only for the car spesific product or does it include their 10W-40 motorcycle oil also (now called racing 4T)? 

JOHNS,

We had HP problems in the past with the Mobil 1 bike oil vs. their car oil...that's why we stuck with the car oil.

We now carry <<0, 0W-20,10W-30, 15W-50 and 20W-50 Alisyn oil to help cure this mess.

It may be next week until we have them all listed in our store.

Until then, call to place your order.

937-912-0054

Brock

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ps. My advice:

1. <<0 for all stock engines in normal climates.

2. 0W-20 for stock engines in warmer climates (AND if you are afraid to use the <<0!!)

3. 10W-30 for modified engines up to 250 HP normally aspirated.

4. 15W-40 Modified engines above 250HP with Nitrous etc.- Billet Crank engines also.

5. 20W-50 for Turbo engines making 500HP or more.....

 Hey Brock,

 What is your recomendation for a 200rwhp NA oilcooled 1340? How 'bout with a 50 or so wet shot?

 I was told the oil cooled motors need a thicker oil so the cams/rockers stick around longer...???

*EJ*,

 Which of the above oils comes in that weight, and would work best with the wet clutches?

 Thanks for the reply!

- Mark

hick1300, not sure, if the bottle has Energy Conserving on it then it has been changed.